I saw one at a retailer in Vernal the other day... Calling out to me.. It's purdy, and it'd be lots of fun! And practical of course.. If it was good enough for our boys in WWII it'd be good enough for home defense right?
Well, the GI 1911's from any company are usually worth owning, but they do have some downsides you might have to address.
Make no mistake, the GI stainless Model is a good gun, and I like the grips it comes with, but personally I'd pass on the GI model and pay the extra hundred bucks for the Stainless Mil-Spec model, 'cause it would pay off in the long run.
First, the Mil-spec comes with high profile sights, not the old GI bump-and-a-hump sights, which are hard to see and not very precise. Never mind the fact that I can hit a three gallon bucket at fifty yards with mine, the high-profile sights are still better.
Second, the Mil-Spec comes with a reliability package that's worth the price of admission alone; the GI model will only feed hardball, and being able to shoot whatever ammo you can find might be important someday.
Third, it has a beveled mag well, which and trust me on this, makes reloading much easier.
Fourth, it comes with a low, scalloped ejection port that won't ding your brass.
For a measly hundred bucks, you get all kinds of good extras that will make you like the gun a whole lot more. If I could do it all over again, I'd have bought a Springer Mil-spec over the Rock Island Armory 1911 I bought, which is nearly identical to the GI Model.
But no matter what you get, the stainless is the way to go. If for any other reason, it'll be easy for the gunsmith to cut off about 1/4 inch off of the hammer spur without needed to refinish the hammer. Honestly, you'll want to have this done after the first session with it. The GI hammer spur is notorious for chewing up the web of the hand. The GI spur hammer freakin' WOUNDS me every time I shoot a GI 1911, which is why I opted to have Eric Zinn install a commander hammer and beavertail grip safety on my RIA.
OR...you could pay the same money as you'd spend on a bare bones Springfield GI model, and instead buy a fully combat ready Rock Island Armory Tactical 1911, with all the bells and whistles straight from the factory, and bypass all the BS.
Combat sights, commander hammer, beavertail grip safety w/ speedbump, extended safety, etc. All good stuff.
Of course, Taurus is also making a decent combat 1911 around the same price.
Your choice really. RIA makes a very effective combat 1911 that won't break the bank. The Taurus seems to be a good buy.
Ultimately, you could do a lot worse than a Springer. I love them. And I've been Jonesing for a Stainless Mil-spec model for about five years now.
Take one of those bad boys, chop a bit off the hammer spur, install some ultra-thin cocobolo wood grips, put some skateboard tape on the frontstrap and top strap just in front of the sights. Load it up with some Wilson Combat 8-round mags filled with Remington 230 grain JHP's, with a half-dozen spare mags on my off side in my Milt Sparks Six-Pack and a Bagwell Helle's Belle bowie for backup, and I piddy da foo' who tries to take me on!
1 comment:
Well, the GI 1911's from any company are usually worth owning, but they do have some downsides you might have to address.
Make no mistake, the GI stainless Model is a good gun, and I like the grips it comes with, but personally I'd pass on the GI model and pay the extra hundred bucks for the Stainless Mil-Spec model, 'cause it would pay off in the long run.
First, the Mil-spec comes with high profile sights, not the old GI bump-and-a-hump sights, which are hard to see and not very precise. Never mind the fact that I can hit a three gallon bucket at fifty yards with mine, the high-profile sights are still better.
Second, the Mil-Spec comes with a reliability package that's worth the price of admission alone; the GI model will only feed hardball, and being able to shoot whatever ammo you can find might be important someday.
Third, it has a beveled mag well, which and trust me on this, makes reloading much easier.
Fourth, it comes with a low, scalloped ejection port that won't ding your brass.
For a measly hundred bucks, you get all kinds of good extras that will make you like the gun a whole lot more. If I could do it all over again, I'd have bought a Springer Mil-spec over the Rock Island Armory 1911 I bought, which is nearly identical to the GI Model.
But no matter what you get, the stainless is the way to go. If for any other reason, it'll be easy for the gunsmith to cut off about 1/4 inch off of the hammer spur without needed to refinish the hammer. Honestly, you'll want to have this done after the first session with it. The GI hammer spur is notorious for chewing up the web of the hand. The GI spur hammer freakin' WOUNDS me every time I shoot a GI 1911, which is why I opted to have Eric Zinn install a commander hammer and beavertail grip safety on my RIA.
OR...you could pay the same money as you'd spend on a bare bones Springfield GI model, and instead buy a fully combat ready Rock Island Armory Tactical 1911, with all the bells and whistles straight from the factory, and bypass all the BS.
Combat sights, commander hammer, beavertail grip safety w/ speedbump, extended safety, etc. All good stuff.
Of course, Taurus is also making a decent combat 1911 around the same price.
Your choice really. RIA makes a very effective combat 1911 that won't break the bank. The Taurus seems to be a good buy.
Ultimately, you could do a lot worse than a Springer. I love them. And I've been Jonesing for a Stainless Mil-spec model for about five years now.
Take one of those bad boys, chop a bit off the hammer spur, install some ultra-thin cocobolo wood grips, put some skateboard tape on the frontstrap and top strap just in front of the sights. Load it up with some Wilson Combat 8-round mags filled with Remington 230 grain JHP's, with a half-dozen spare mags on my off side in my Milt Sparks Six-Pack and a Bagwell Helle's Belle bowie for backup, and I piddy da foo' who tries to take me on!
Post a Comment